Negroni in Teal

Teal Negroni - Chessie 2

And next we have the lovely Mr Cherrypix modelling his latest Negroni in Teal, accessorised with complementary orange cat.

Mr Cherrypix has wonderfully long arms (and gives the best hugs)…but shirts with sleeves long enough for him are often waaaay too wide in the body. So, I decided to try to make him some casual shirts, with added sleeve length.

Enter the Negroni Shirt pattern by Colette. What a great first-time mens’ shirt pattern! It’s wonderfully drafted and the detailed instruction book made my first foray into collars, cuffs, yolk, flat felling (and more) a real pleasure. The fit is more European (narrower) through the body, yet still wide across the shoulders. All I needed to do was increase the sleeve and cuffs length slightly.

I’m learning to ‘blend’ interfacing types, in different areas. Both collar and cuffs have medium-weight sew-in interfacing. I am fast becoming a fan of sew-in interfacing, rather than fusible. It just feels better, to my way of thinking. [Mind you, I used a glue stick to baste the collar/cuff fabric and interfacing together!] I did use fusible interfacing for the front placket – it’s not as stiff as the collar/cuffs interfacing, which makes for a softer body section.

I love the edgestitching…made possible thanks to my most favourite of sewing feet, the Ditch Quilting Foot S (this is the one for Janome top-loading machines, other brands have similar feet). You can move the needle super close to the edge and maintain an even distance by running the ‘rudder’ along the fabric edge. It’s great for topstitching too!

Negroni Teal - Collar Detail

Negroni Teal - Cuff Detail

The plackets were easier to make than expected. You just need to be very precise with folding and stitching. I drew lines with a fading ink marker, which made it a lot simpler.

I also learned the ”burrito” yoke method which very neatly encloses all unfinished edges inside the yoke. A mind-bender at first, but if you just ‘go with it”, it works beautifully. Colette’s clear instructions are particularly good on this step.

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And I had some more practice with flat felled seams. Still need to work on these. It’s a challenge to maintain an even width between the seams.  They also seem to pucker, no matter what you do to press them…due to the fact that you are enclosing a larger area in a smaller one. This puckering seems to occur on RTW shirts too, so perhaps that’s just the way it goes?? I’d love any tips/suggestions on how to reduce the puckers, if it’s possible!?

The fabric is a lovely crisp 100% cotton from Spotlight. I love the colour on Mr Cherrypix…as well as the fit. A shirt that he can comfortably wear cuffed! (Mind you, he still tends to roll the sleeves up, which looks great too).

There will be more of these hanging in Mr C’s wardrobe!

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58 comments

  1. Fabulous shirt! The finishing is so neat. I must learn about that burrito method! You do know that you will get puppy dog eyes too, every time Mr C needs a new shirt!

  2. Great shirt!! I bet Mr Cherrypix is very happy. The shirt looks like a perfect fit and so beautifully made. I love the burrito method; a dear friend of my Mum’s showed me years ago and you can use it for so many garments where a yoke is used. Great for little girl’s dresses as well.

    • Thank you Ms SewingElle…I was rather pleased with the final outcome…I confess to having ripped out the arms several times after sewing them on inside out…so easy do to when using a fabric which is the same on both sides!

  3. Your shirt looks very professional… quite an acommplishment. Men’s tailoring is not an easy thing to pull off. Mr. CP looks terrific in his new shirt!

    • Thanks Kerri…I think Collette’s clear instructions really help to achieve a nice looking shirt. Also, the ‘camp’ collar (ie no collar stand to separate collar from shirt body) is good for a first time shirt maker. Mr CP thought he would prefer a ‘normal’ shirt with collar stand, but likes the way this turned out…more sporty/party/casual ???

      • What I noticed the most about the shirt was how smooth the collar was. It’s looks like something you would buy in the store. I’ve made lots of boys dress shirts and never fount an interfacing that looked as smooth as your shirt does. The interfacing had a tendency to create little bubbles after being washed. What did you use to get such a good result?

        • oh dear…I don’t recall the name of the sew in interfacing…however, I do know I purchased it at the Remnant Warehouse in Sydney….so, next time I’m in there, I will check the name and report back! It’s quite tightly woven and stiff like curtain-backing fabric. I pre-washed it, just in case it might shrink…but didn’t seem to noticeably do that…

          • Ah, that is the difference. I always used a fusible and the results were less that first rate. I do have to say that recently I was ironing one of my husbands shirts made by Ralph Lauren and I noticed the collar was bubbling just like my shirts used to and I thought to myself… hmm… not satisfactory considering the price of these shirts. Interesting! Don’t go out of your way, but if you do remember to check out the name of the interfacing, it would be nice to know. Thanks!

            • Hi Kerri – the name of the interfacing I used was ”Shapewell”, a Vilene product. It’s woven, sew-in and comes in a variety of stiffnesses (is that a word??). I really like it! If you can’t find it in the US, I’m happy to send you some…

              As an aside, I’ve been watching Angela King’s How to Sew a Jacket’ online course via PR. She talks at length about interfacing…and thinks HTC brand is the Gold Standard of Interfacings but mentioned it is hard to find. She is less enthused about Vilene brand. I can’t find a great deal of HTC down here.,…there are few suppliers but their range is limited. As I said, I’m happy with the Vilene Shapewell….(but I am v-e-r-y new to the world of interfacings…)

  4. Well done! This is the 2nd shirt using this pattern I’ve seen this week, maybe I’ll get one for husbands shirts instead of pattern cutting them. He may get them quicker! Or is that cheating? Pardon my ignorance though, what’s the “buritto” method??

  5. Congratulations on your first mens shirt! Love the colour and the fit looks very impressive. My DH is still waiting. However after reading about the fit of this one looks like my no pattern purchasing has just gone out the window.

    Hope you are feeling better :)

    • Much better thanks…what a nasty stomach bug!!…apparently making the rounds in Sydney. I would love to see you make one of these…an opportunity to learn more about the precision work you do so beautifully…perhaps we could rope Dilliander in too…wow, my precision skills would improve through the roof!!!

  6. Wow. Mr CP looks great in his couture shirt. Foot S looks like it’s paid itself off. The top stitching and finishing a wonderful and couture to me. You do such good work. Hope to catch up soon:)

  7. WOW! Congrats on making your huzzy a fantastic shirt in such a great colour! The orange cat serves as lovely contrast. Your top stitching is perfect and so close to the edge! Will have to look into a foot for my Brother to do something similar. I agree with sew in interfacing vs fused…I’m moving in that direction as well. You have more control, the weave doesn’t show through the fabric if it’s light and you can remove it if you don’t like it. I have yet to attempt menswear, so I’ll keep this pattern in mind for Mr. CoutureAcademic ;)

    • A-ha.. thank you for defining the pros of sew-in interfacing – control and reduced show-through are exactly why I like it better…the ‘glue’ of fusible sometimes creates gluggy roughness (technical term…).
      Thought I might have horrified you with the glue stick basting…but I learned to do that from David Page Coffin’s excellent Shirtmaking Techniques (book & DVD)…so it must be OK… ;-)

  8. Great shirt. Oh how I love the colour teal… along with mustard, burnt orange etc… I can see why you’ll be making more of these shirts. I should be making them for Mr Blogless Anna too.

  9. Gorgeous colour. I might need this pattern my husband has ‘monkey arms’ he’s nearly 6 foot 6 and it’s hard to get shirts to got him. He’s lean and most XXL skirts have huge necks!

  10. Great job! All of these men’s shirts on the blogosphere lately remind me that I have about 3 large-ish pieces of fabric in my stash set aside for my hubby some work shirts…and goodness knows he could use a couple more in the closet!

      • He works at a bank, so it’s business attire. I’ve made him several shirts, but it’s been a couple of years, so they’re starting to look their age….the pattern I really like for his is a Kwik Sew pattern, though I’ve also got a Jalie pattern that I might try for him this next time (so that I can use the scraps to make matching shirts for my son–or do they not do that with boys and their daddies?)

        • Thanks for the heads up on Kwik Sew and Jalie men’s patterns. Peter from Male Pattern Boldness posted today about some new Vogue men’s patterns too…more options! Matching shirts …I think it depends on the son’s age…can look cute when they’re little…but you might have a challenge if teenaged :-)

  11. Oh my word! This is quite an accomplishment, and I am very impressed. I will have to look into that Janome foot. My topstitching is not nearly as precise as I would like. This is a terrific shirt! My hubby has very long arms and torso, and RTW shirts don’t fit him well either, so now I am haunted by the fact that I should make him some shirts. Oh well, I am sure I can suppress it! Did you have any fitting issues with this pattern? By the way, Mr C. is quite handsome. You are a well-matched pair.

    • Aw, thanks Becky. The Janome S foot really does make easy work of precision edge/top stitching. I made the XL….now that I think about it, in addition to lengthening the sleeves and cuffs, I also removed a tad extra width in the front (approx 2cm), at the armscye. Other than that it was a good fit.

  12. This is VERY impressive! You did a beautiful job with detailing. I hope Mr. C fully appreciates his custom made shirts! As for you, you’ve probably created a monster! Great work!

  13. Really nice shirt! You have done a beautiful job fitting and sewing it – I am impressed! I’m so glad to have a referral for this pattern – while the last thing my husband needs is more shirts, I am thinking about one of these for my son who prefers the European fit… Thank you!!

  14. Very impressive sewing. I would suggest just sew the fancy shirt and present it to him and he will have you believe he suggested it. He does look very happy wearing it. I actually have that foot too, can’t remember why I bought it.

  15. Great version of the Negroni – it looks like you and I are on the same wavelength with colour – we picked the same teal cotton for menswear (I made the McCall’s shirt out of it). The colour looks wonderful on your husband and your top stitching is top-notch :)

  16. Oh, I just noticed this post now. That shirt is very well made, love it! And, you colour coordinated perfectly! Green shirt, orange cat. Kitty is proud :).

  17. Pingback: Lobbing a Leibster and Other Award Thank-You’s « CherryPix : SewingPix

  18. Pingback: All about me… | Blogless Anna...


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